The required components are:
46343 Relay/Fuse Panel $28.48
75730 Relays $14.55- Qty 5
31068 280 series Terminals (14-16ga) $5.84- Qty 50
39001 Terminal Seals $6.34- Qty 100
31713 Blue Female Quick Disconnect terminals $8.49- qty 50
46923 80 Amp Circuit Breaker $24.71
$88.41 + fuses, switches and wiring.
Depending on what you are hooking up, will determine what size fuses you use. You can go to any auto parts store to get the fuses as well in smaller quantites.
Most electric compressors will be 20-30 Amps, some higher. These relays are only rated at 30 Amp, and the mini style fuses only go to 30 Amp.
A few examples-
A 50" LED lightbar (288 watt) will draw 24 Amps.
Two windshield mount LED spotlights- 30 watts each = 5 amps total.
12 – 10 watt led rock lights = 10 Amps total.
You can fuse slightly higher than your expected total load per channel.
Mini Fuses or Circuit Breakers-
From waytekwire, fuses are:
46257 20A Fuses $5.60- Qty 50
46255 10A Fuses $5.60- Qty 50
Waytek has mini circuit breakers you can get instead of fuses.
46864- 25A Mini Circuit Breaker $6.84 (qty 3)
46862- 15A Mini Circuit Breaker $6.84 (qty 3)
Switch examples-
Typical Carling Rocker Switches from waytekwire- light turns on only when switch is on.
44305 SPST Rocker Body Lighted $4.24ea- qty 5- $21.20
44352 Rocker Cover Red Lense $1.38ea- qty 5- $6.90- don't order these if you will get otrattw covers
Otrattw has dual lit led switch bodys ($10 each) and even have some with two different colored led’s. So one led can turn on when you turn the headlights on (illumination) and one led will turn on when the switch is activated.
For example here is a Blue/Blue switch body
http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-BLUE-BLUE-LEDS-LOWER-LED-INDEPENDENT-V1D1JBBB-00000-000.htmlhere is a green/green
http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-GREEN-GREEN-LEDS-LOWER-LED-INDEPENDENT-V1D1JHHB-00000-000.htmlThey have green, white, amber, blue, red and mixed combinations
http://www.otrattw.net/LOWER-INDEPENDENT-LIGHT-UPPER-DEPENDENT-LIGHT-SWITCH-ONLY/The lower led will be the one that lights up with your dash lights, the upper is what lights up when switch is activated.
Wiring- Go to a local Car Audio Shop. You will need some 8 gauge wire for positive and ground, and then install the 80 Amp circuit breaker less than 12" from the battery positive post.
You will also need some 16 gauge wire to run from the relay panel to the switches- 7 conductors (1 for each switch, and one for 12volt feed from fuse 6, and 1 to bring the ground from the switches back to the ground terminal on the relay panel) Use automotive primary wire. Do not use speaker wire under the hood as the temperature rating on the wire is not high enough.
You will also want 16 gauge wire to run from the outputs of the relay panel to your accessories.
Misc- (4) 8ga ring terminals, (1) Blue (16ga) ring terminal, (5) Blue Male Fully Insulated .250 Quick Disconnects- Car audio store
About $35 for wiring, terminals
You can get the Covers in a lot of different colors and lense colors from waytekwire or you can get the printed specific covers from otrattw.com for $5 each, ie “Rock Lights, Beer, etc”
Before you begin, please note, once you insert the terminal into the back of the relay panel, it is pretty much permanent, so make sure your crimp on the terminal is good, solder it if you can.
** Test each crimp job by holding the terminal and pulling on the wire to see if it comes loose from the terminal.
Waytek has a terminal removal tool- if you need it. $9.46
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/422/P...-REMOVAL-TOOL/Waytek also has a crimp tool for the terminals- I just used pliers to bend over the tabs and soldered it, but you could buy the crimp tool and get by without soldering. (at the time I did this writeup, I only knew of one crimper that was $84, but now there is one that is $22)
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/533/C...ED-METRI-PACK/You will want to make all the connections to the back of the relay panel before installing the fuses or relays. If you will not be adding an accessory yet for all of the channels, don’t install the relay or fuse for the unused channel.
I ran a short pigtail with quick disconnects as my main output from the relay panel. This way, for every accessory I hooked up, I could ground the accessory close to the accessory, only run a positive wire from the accessory to the relay panel. That way the accessories can be disconnected or connected easily.
typical wire crimped (I did not have the actual crimp tool) to terminal (slide seal on before crimping) and solder the crimp.